Fixing ropes to get a head start. Ropes like those sometimes found below Heart Ledges on El Capitan are not maintained or condoned by the National Park Service. Mini Traxion Lines: Same rules apply; If you fix a line for training, remove it the same day. As a courtesy, do not leave ropes or gear on popular routes that might be an eyesore.
- Where Do I Start For Climbing El Capitan Texas
- Where Do I Start For Climbing El Capitan 10
- Where Do I Start For Climbing El Capitan Alex Honnold
- El Capitan Climbing Free Solo
- Jul 30, 2015 Among her many accomplishments, she has completed free ascents of El Capitan, first ascents in South America, the Karakorum and the Arctic, and some of the hardest climbs worldwide. Considered a rock climbing visionary, Steph lives in Moab, Utah, or sometimes out of a Honda Fit, in a tent, or in her off-the-grid octagonal cabin near Indian Creek.
- Learning to climb a big wall like El Capitan takes a lot of practice. Most of the time people start in the climbing gym or on short walls to make sure their systems are efficient.
| El Capitan viewed from Cathedral Spires. |
Yosemite Big Wall Climbing Info
Yosemite is big wall paradise. The walls are enormous, the rock solid, and the weather ideal. Below I have offered a primer to help you plan a Yosemite big wall adventure. I have also included some personal tips and techniques and the gear I am currently using. Enjoy!
— Chris McNamara
P.S. email me if you have any beta that should be added to this page
Yosemite Big Wall Skills
Yosemite offers short practice aid routes, 3000-foot A5 nightmares, and everything in between. No matter what you plan to climb, you will need basic free climbing and aid climbing skills before you arrive in the Valley. Train in both a climbing gym and your local crag and read our How To Big Wall Climb Book. Consider purchasing Road to The Nose, a guidebook that offers advice on training for Yosemite big walls and also includes numerous topos for moderate routes. For a more complete selection of big wall routes, check out Yosemite Big Wall SuperTopos.
Good Practice Aid Climbs
Here are some El Capitan base routes to hone your aid skills and get you familiar with Yosemite granite. All these climbs are included in the Road to The Nose guidebook. Also, here are some Southern California practice areas
Route | Pitches | Source |
| Pacific Ocean Wall Base | C1 | The Pacific Ocean Wall is an intimidating climb with a very moderate first pitch. This is a great first aid climbing lead. |
| North America Wall Base | 1 | This pitch offers sustained nut and small cam placements with a few 'aid boulder problems' below the anchor. |
C2 5.7 | This wandering and adventurous climb leads to El Cap Tree, an 80-foot ponderosa, the only major tree on El Capitan. | |
| Dihedral Wall Base | 2 | These two pitches ascend the lower portion of an enormous 600-foot dihedral. They are sustained and involve some tricky placements. |
| La Escuela | C1 | A great first aid lead. Some of the placements are a little awkward but they are generally secure. |
Good First Big Wall Climbs in Yosemite
Below are five moderate Yosemite big walls. None of these climbs is easy and you will need to have your aid skills wired before attempting one. Most of these climbs are included in the Road to The Nose guidebook.
Where Do I Start For Climbing El Capitan Texas
| Rating | Pitches | Description |
| Washington Column, South Face | 10 | A popular first wall. This climb is probably the easiest Grade V wall and is usually crowded. |
| Leaning Tower, West Face | C2F 5.7 | Probably Yosemite's shortest Grade V wall but also the most overhanging. Most of the crux sections have fixed gear and there are many bolt ladders. |
12 | A steep and popular route. While most crux sections are fixed, the exposure and thin crack systems make this climb challenging both mentally and physically. | |
| Lost Arrow Spire Tip | C2 5.7 | A true Yosemite classic climb. While only two pitches long, the exposure will make you feel like you're halfway up El Capitan. |
| Skull Queen | 13 | A more difficult and less crowded variation to the South Face. |
Brief ad break: please help support this site by checking out the Yosemite Big Walls guidebook. There is a free sample download here
| View the Index and Introduction |
| View a list of new routes since the Second Edition and read the Preface about What's New? |
Good Long and Moderate Big Wall Climbs
After climbing a few shorter big wall routes, you may be ready to tackle the biggies: Half Dome and El Capitan. Listed below are some of the most classic Grade VI big walls in Yosemite. Take a look at the list of climbs to develop a good tick list of great Yosemite climbing routes. Check out our list of Yosemite's 40+ best big wall climbs
Route | Pitches | Source |
| Half Dome, Northwest Face | C1 5.9 | My (Chris McNamara's) favorite route. Loads of quality free climbing in a spectacular location. Most of this route can be climbed at 5.9 or easier. |
| The Nose | 31 | Considered by many to best rock climb in the world. Period. |
C2 5.9 | Almost as classic and slightly harder than the The Nose. Many memorable pitches and ledges. | |
| Lurking Fear | 19 | One of the more moderate and shorter routes on El Capitan. The first half requires mostly aid climbing and the second half requires mostly free climbing. |
| Zodiac | A2 5.7 | The most moderate route on El Capitan's overhanging southeast face. Spectacular exposure and easy hauling. |
Climbing Safety
More than 100 climbing accidents occur every year in Yosemite. The two documents below include some helpful information to help you avoid an accident.
| Staying Alive by John Dill, Yosemite Search and Rescue |
Where Do I Start For Climbing El Capitan 10
| Two Climbing Accident Summaries by Tyson Hausdoerffer |
Climbing Ethics
The document below contains a number of tips that all big wall climbers should adhere to in order to keep Yosemite the climbing paradise it is today. Also, here is a great thread on making a poop tube or big wall waste system and a discussion on big wall passing ethics.
| View Low Impact Climbing in Vertical Wilderness andTaking Care of the Big Stone by Jesse McGahee, Climbing Ranger, and Steve Grossman |
Favorite Big Wall Links
OutdoorGearLab Big Wall Gear Reviews
Live El Cap and Half Dome Cams
Yosemite Climber's Information
National Park Service's Climbing Page
Chris McNamara's Aid Rack
Here are the two aid racks I use most often on Yosemite big walls (Here is the big wall gear list with links). I have also included a checklist of what to bring on multi-day walls. I did not include a rack for a sample A4 nailing route because nailing racks vary wildly depending on the route. Keep in mind that everyone prefers different gear and my rack not necessarily the best rack for you. Also, I tend to go light and you will probably carry more cams, nuts, pitons, etc. Here is a detailed description of basic wall gear and protection or a description of haul bags, portaledges, and bivy gear
Where Do I Start For Climbing El Capitan Alex Honnold
| Rack for all clean routes (Example: The Nose) | Rack for mostly clean routes (Example: Zodiac) | Misc. gear for multi-day walls: |
1 ea DMM Offset Nuts | ALL CLEAN ROUTE RACK PLUS: | Light Portaledge |
El Capitan Climbing Free Solo
Anchor Conditions
Since 1997 the American Safe Climbing Association has replaced more than 800 bolts in Yosemite. Some anchor information is available for certain climbs on the route beta pages. For the most up-to-date information on each route’s anchors conditions, visit the ASCA web site.